It’s not a traditional silver shampoo. The metallic silver shampoo MMS. This is a shampoo with a very strong composition, very concentrated and can be used in different processes. If I’ve done a highlight and I get an orange color, I do one shampoo of the metallic silver shampoo or MMS. It will take out 100% the orange and deposit pigment to transform it to grey or beige colors.
Another use is, if I am doing a highlight and I don’t want to use toner I can use this shampoo to take out all the yellow and give me whiter results. This shampoo is so strong and solves many challenges.
Also, if I have a case where the hair is brown level 5 and has orange on the ends, I can use this shampoo that will give a beautiful result to eliminate the brassiness and the orange. The MMS is one of the strongest silver shampoos available in the market now and it has a very strong and sensitive role.
Today, I will talk also about this delicate product- the silver shampoo. We all know what it is and its role is.
But what you don’t know is that this shampoo is a toner boost shampoo, it is indeed a silver shampoo, but its use is different, I will explain about it.
You can all see that in the end the transformation process that I use a blue product and people always ask what it is.
What’s its role? To give silver or white or to take out the yellow?
What role does this toner boost play? Its composition is different than any other silver shampoo. This is why the process I will talk about now; you can’t do it with any other product.
This is because its composition and ingredients are for certain purposes not like the traditional silver shampoo.
Today, if I am doing a grey or beige or any other color and I got a darker color than I wanted- this shampoo boosts the color and lightens it 1-2 degrees and makes it shine more.
In 90% of the toners I do, I always use this toner boost to lighten and make the color more shiny.
Other shampoos won’t make such a difference. They might take out the yellow or give you grey, but this toner boost is giving you higher levels and lightening up to 2 degrees.
Another use of it might be for violet, it can take out the violet and weird colors; but its characteristic is to lighten the colors 1-2 degrees and make the color more shiny.
The bleaching powder is something really important for me in order to achieve the results that I want, and I am super fussy regarding the quality.
Now I will talk about the powder that I made, its characteristics, its importance and how it can work for you.
We all know the risks that we can face with the powder.
Most powders in the market expand after 30 or 40 minutes.
It overheats, becomes runny, gives uneven bleaching results or is even too strong that it breaks the hair.
Today, I solved all these challenges with my powder. The quality of the results was the driving factor and the most difficult thing in producing the powder for this line.
First, I wanted a powder that is gentle on the hair. We decreased the risks by about 99%.
I spent 20 years always paying attention to the hair of my clients to make sure that the powder didn’t expand or overheat, and the hair doesn’t get damaged.
You will have to try this powder and test the difference. I sometimes wish I had done this product 10 years ago; I certainly would have been now in even a much better place.
What is impressive about this powder is that it has a silky touch and feeling on the hair.
It extends and covers fast, it doesn’t become hot and it doesn’t expand. It gives you the color from top to bottom 100%. It is very smooth and gentle, and it gives you more leeway if it remains more time on the client’s hair.
I am using it on a hair damaged already and it is giving me amazing results. This should assure you. The ARKITEKT and the powder are revolutionary and they will have your back.
And I can see how much more productive and I am enjoying my work at the same time. I should draw attention to that. I, like everyone else, am always searching for safety in my work. The products that I use are my weapons.
It is really important today to know the weapons you are working with to protect yourself. This is what I have always been looking for.
Many times before, we used to face challenges and test different products.
We will talk about something really important concerning the methods of lightening. The method I use with the colors and the results I choose to deliver.
This is something really important for every hairdresser to know as this helps make our life easier.
I have three levels of lightening: orange, golden yellow and light yellow. Starting with orange. When I decide to tone on an orange level, I immediately agree with the client that I am going to caramel or hazel colors from the same level.
For orange lightening to go to caramel or hazel, I use from 5 to 7. If I go higher to 8/9/10, the result won’t be the same and I can face problems like remaining stains and the color won’t be the one I want.
I want a deep 100% hair coverage,I use between 5 and 7 to get the coverage and results. These are the same numbers used on orange levels.
If I use higher numbers like 8/9/10, the result won’t be the same and the color will fade and be patchy of course.
And something really important to note is that the result I aim for should be classy, beautiful and the color brightness should be pretty.
From 5 to 7, how much time do you leave it on the hair?
It depends on each level but in general for level 5, 6, or 7 it’s between 10-12 minutes maximum to get the result.
Of course, if you are using only the number 5 to obtain caramel or another color like 5.23, 5.32, 5.72; the 5 takes less time to deposit the color. Thus 5-6 minutes is enough.
The higher you go; it will take more time and this also depends on the desired level of color.
There are no rules to say that you should leave it 12 minutes to get caramel or 10 minutes to hazelnut.
It is critical to observe the color and assess the time. This is what I have been trained on and doing my whole life- to be able to assess and feel the right moment to remove the color.
Like say if you are doing the same toning with the same formula I am using, and you decide to remove it after 6 minutes because you like the tone but I leave it for 10 minutes instead.
That is fine,there are no rules. Just assess the right time. This depends on tastes and opinions.
I prefer to train my eyes and feelings to do so and this is why we created toners or bonbons de Mounir- to deliver these results to hairdressers.
I am addressing professionals and the hairdressers who love the adventure, who love to be creative and enter an adventurous world. The world of colors. The world of Mounir.
So, I repeat that it is extremely important to train your eyes and feelings to know when to rinse the color or keep it longer. This is really important because even 1 or 2 minutes are important for the results.
Of course, you will leave number 7 in for a longer time?
This is normal because if we are doing a dark color, it is normal to tone with number 5 or 6 as it will give the color faster than number 7.
So we move to yellow?
The light yellow lightening levels are my playground and the levels I work with. It is rare that I work on white or yellow.
To get the clear and lucid results like shining grey or beige or violet beige or colors we see clear light in. I always work on light yellow not on white.
So why do I work on light yellow and not white in the formulas I choose?
Well first, when you lighten to white you remove all the gold or the red pigments from the hair, it becomes light.
If I tone with any color it will give me crazy, aggressive and strong colors.
I use most of the time the light-yellow lightening because first of all, I get a very enriched color by keeping natural pigment in the hair.
Then the color doesn’t fade out quickly from the hair. I rely on my formulas to work with the pigment in hair, in the light yellow bleaching levels. I also rely on my toners that are formulated to work with this level of bleaching.
Bleaching to light yellow helps me get the results that I want. The results will differ if bleaching to white , orange or yellow.
The level of lightening is extremely important. Any formula you see me doing on Facebook or Instagram is based on light yellow bleaching which is even and without orange.
So that yellow color that the hairdressers are scared of,
you are using it to your advantage by keeping the pigment
to get these beautiful colors.
This is a really important subject for hairdressers.
Key points of the bleaching process are 1st, the health of the hair and 2nd, the results that you desire.
It should be clear that the bleaching to white levels is used for special cases only if a woman wants white platinum or ice grey or light pink.
These are the cases where we go to white bleaching. But I am talking about the normal usual level of bleaching that we use in salons for most of our clients. Ordinary people for who we do transformations and we are having beautiful light color in the hair.
You should not bleach to white to get Mounir’s colors but rather to light yellow to have a clean level without orange or yellow.
When we talk about light yellow, it is a totally different level from yellow.
The light yellow is golden, free from orange and red.
This is extremely important if you want to achieve light colors in 8 and 9 or use the bonbons toners that we created. You must bleach to light yellow not white.
No need to go to white bleaching, as it will weaken the clients hair and it is not needed.
For all yellow lightening you should go to natural colors that are not hazel nor caramel. The dark beige or the dark olive green; the natural colors.
If you bleach to gold or yellow levels, I recommend toners between 6-8 and stay away from 9-12.
So you can mix between 6 and 9 and stay on levels 7 or 8 for yellow lightening to give the results 100%.
As we said before, for orange lightening we use between 5 and 7 and now for yellow we use between 6 to 8.
And for light yellow, it’s hairdressers recreation. I sometimes do the toning with level 5 or 9 or 10.
This is where your creativity plays a role. You should train your eyes to observe and feel what to use when to stop to have the desired result.
In general, hairdressers should be confident as i will show them the road to take.
Hairdressers know that I do toner with any level 4/10/5, they don’t know the precise level I use.
If someone is confident with colors, he can use and play with all levels and colors when toning a light bleached hair.
Now THE ARKITEKT
It is a super plex and we will discuss its functions.
Until the day that THE ARKITEKT super plex was created People ask what is Mounir’s secret.
Mounir bleaches the hair from one degree to another without the hair losing its brightness and it remains strong and healthy.
Today, the ARKITEKT is the real secret because of how it works and its functions that serve the transformations I do.
We should explain precisely about its importance and the functions and strengths of this product in comparison to other products.
Plex are common worldwide but this super plex or ARKITEKT is different.
The challenges I faced with the products that I used before they covered the hair from the outside to the inside. In other words, in 15-20 days the hair will return as it was after the bleach.
Today, the ARKITEKT function is to rebuild the inside of the hair to the outside. It protects and regenerates the hair; it has an amazing function.
There is one important thing I want to say. When you are doing a bleach or lightening the hair, the hair loses oxygen and water.So, it loses its moisture and vitality.
My ARKITEKT product starts rebuilding from the inside to the outside, it protects the moisture and oxygen inside the hair.
This makes the lightening process 100% healthier.
It is an important treatment to the hair with the lightening process.We can use the ARKITEKT as a treatment applied weekly or with the dye and it also locks the color and slows the fading.
The ARKITEKT proves time and time again that it locks the colour and prevents fading unlike any other Plex.
Now my secret is out. I advise every hairdresser to try this product. I talk with most love and passion about ARKITEKT because it is a great product that protects us as hairdressers and helps us avoid challenges and to achieve the desired bleaching results and colors.
You all know how much risk there is in our domain of work especially in my work and the ransformations that I do. The ARKITEKT is a very important tool that I rely on.
The Bonbons explained in detail. I made the Bonbons for a certain purpose and to fulfill a certain pation.
I have created all the formulas to the Bonbons. I personally created Bonbons de Mounir.
I have brought together all my experience to create this family and make it available for you; but it is really important to follow my recommendations carefully on how to use it to get the ultimate results.
As you can see on the swatches, each color has three different shades and not only one color. Firstly, the application time is a crucial factor in the result of these colors.
Secondly, it is very important to apply these colors on light yellow bleached hair as it is important to keep some pigment in the hair and not bleach to white blonde The purple moon for example, you can see three shades of the color. Dark, light and lighter in one tube.
In the Bonbons range, each color in one tube can produce 3 different delicate and specially crafted reflects as per the swatches.
We adopted the grey, the violet and the gold in the Bonbons family as the main 3 key reflects. once you got the understand their mystery you will produce great results, they are amazing colors.
I will explain the purple moon and all the other colors in thesame family.
I use the bonbon family on extra light-yellow bleached hair,and I use these colors when I am applying on a full head not highlighting. I always mix with peroxide 20 vol. I start applying on the roots 2-4 cm depending on each clients desire. I apply for 10 minutes and I will directly see the dark purple moon pigment on the roots starting to form.
Then after 10 minutes, I start applying and bleeding the color to the second part of the hair for 5-7 minutes. Then I bleed to the ends, I get a darker color that progresses to lighter.
At the end, we need just 2-3 minutes maximum to have the light color on the end of the hair. And we will use the same formula and strategy with all the bonbon colors- desert rose, milky way, rabbit beige and more.
The Bonbon family colors are special and amazing.
One question I am frequently asked about with the Bonbon colors is if they can only be used on full pre lightened hair.
I do use the Bonbons on ombré hair, the hair must be bleached in a clean way. There cannot be different levels of blonde in the ombre but rather an all even blonde throughout. I don’t recommend anyone using the Bonbons on a highlighted hair if you don’t have the same exact color. Sometimes when you lighten the hair you might have a different orange color on the root, or a slightly different color in the middle. These colors are a little bit delicate and need a high degree of lightening to get the same colors of the catalog.
I would like to add more information on the Bonbons range. If you want to use it, all the hair should be lightened to the same exact blonde.
You can’t have different highlights or lowlights in your blonde, the blonde must be even. it can be darker to lighter blonde ombre but can’t have strands of light or dark blonde through your blonde.
People ask if they can use Bonbon with highlights or ombré.You can use them in only one case- if you have a proper clean lightening which means that all the hair is lightened to one same color.
There should not be orange or any other challenges with the bleaching because the Bonbons are really delicate colors.
The color won’t be the same on orange. The color of the lightening should be clean and the same for the whole hair in order to obtain the beauty of these colors.
When you can see that the bleaching is the same, you have the exact same color in all the hair, you can apply the Bonbons.
Metallic violet and metallic rose are strong and bold colors Again we use them on light bleached hair that is a bit lighter than light yellow, to achieve the colors the same as the swatches in the catalogue.
To get that melt ombre or balayage look I apply them from the roots and progressively drag them to the ends. I do not apply them like a toner from the top to end at one time.
The timing of the application is important and effects the final results. I leave the color up to 10 minutes on the roots if I am using number 7 or 8 then drag on top, the middle and then ends. The whole process or application time can take up to 20-25 minutes for the total length of the hair.
For number 7, we leave it about 10 minutes on the roots
If I am working with 9MV, I might leave on longer to increase the intensity. Or you can play and be creative as you wish with the MV and MR family 7/8/9 shades to obtain the results that you want progressively.
MR and MV it is really important that we work on a bleached hair lighter then light yellow and with mix with peroxide 20.
The highlifts are extremely delicate colors and will help us in 2 ways.
1, I use them in my tint on natural hair or to get a low light or lighten the hair 2-3+ degrees.
2, I use them to do a toner, to get a beautiful blond color. I can use any color level 10/11/12 for example 12.11, 12.16, 12.13,11.11 or 10.11.
Let’s explain 10.11, it’s a color that takes out all the yellow color 100% and gives you a natural blond color and doesn’t take you to the grey color. It will give a natural beautiful blond color. Also 11.11 is the same as 10.11 but lighter.
I use 12.13 to produce beautiful golden blonde shades. It is Important to mention that all these suggestions are to be applied on light yellow bleached hair 12.16 is an amazing color that contains grey and red when applied on a light-yellow bleached hair you will get the exact tinge of violet color on the swatch you see in the catalogue.
Often, I mix the 12.16 with 10.11 or 11.11. The colors in the high lift family are really beautiful and amazing.
Also, if I want to use them on natural hair to do a low light or a sun kissed colors, I use them with peroxide 30. This lightens the hair up to 3-4 degrees.
Or if I want to lighten natural hair 2-3 degrees, I can use the highlight with peroxide 20 or 30 depending on the result that I want. So the highlifts are amazing beautiful colors with an amazing brightness and that will give us amazing results.
When doing a low light, we can also support a little bit the highlights with 0.11 that can counter the orange if we are lightening more than 3-4 degrees.
The Correctors are:
Clear, 0.10, 0.11, 0.20, 0.22, 0.33 and 0.66.
I mix them with other colours to add to the intensity of the colour like red I would add 0.66. Or a violet color, I add more violet. 0.10 is grey/blue, I use it if I am doing a blue/black to add blue to it. The clear I use when I want to decrease some reflects or the intensity of a color.
To reduce the intensity of some colors I would mix them with the clear to lower their strength or intensity.
0.33 is also a special and important number that has two functions.
1, I add it to my mix to strengthen the gold colors.
2, I use it most of the time in my formulas to solve some challenges.
For example, if I am doing a formula with 5.11 or 5.23 on a light-yellow hair.
if the final result i get is grey/violet color , but i wanted the beige color, I will add 2-3 cm of 0.33 in a bowl and mix it with a 10 or 20 peroxide and with 40-50 mL of water.
This makes it liquid like a shampoo. I then apply it like a golden shampoo to the customer’s hair for 1-2 minutes to remove the unwanted grey/violet color that I see.
0.11 I use in most of my formulas whether I am doing a full tint or toning. I add it to intensify the grey color.
0.20 is my favorite color as it is smooth and gentle, and I often add it to intensify the violet in the formulas. 0.22 is more intense and different to 0.20.
If I am toning the hair that is level 11 or 12 and I am using 0.11, I also like to add 0.2 in the formula as I love the violet to be present in most of my colors.
The violet pigment will give me a very beautiful brightness; when the violet is present in formulas (in small amounts of course) it will enrich and make the color more beautiful.
The violet will affect the brightness of the color and final result.
The .2 is violet and we’ve done 2.2, 5.22, 7.2 and 6.222.
The 2.2 is for clients who like to do a dark dye, close to dark black and want to see violet in it.
If I have a client with a hair level 4/5/6 and would like to do black with some violet, there is no dye that I am aware of containing black/violet. We find blue/black, yes. But this is why I created the black/violet. We can see the color clearly if we have base level 5/6. It is beautiful black/violet, color 2.2.
It is one shade lighter than black. You can see it in the light or in the sun. A beautiful natural black with violet. 5.22 is the natural violet. 6.222 is that strong purple/violet- wild and fun to use. All triple numbers are strong intense colors, .222, .444, .666. The triple digits are strong and intense but produce a beautiful color.
Red family is 666 and that is very intense, a family in which we concentrated the red. You will love the red colors in this family, and it will be a different red than anything you have experienced. 666 and 444 families are from the colors that are really special and delicate, and you will love them once you try them.