The bleaching powder is something really important for me in order to achieve the results that I want, and I am super fussy regarding the quality.
Now I will talk about the powder that I made, its characteristics, its importance and how it can work for you.
We all know the risks that we can face with the powder.
Most powders in the market expand after 30 or 40 minutes.
It overheats, becomes runny, gives uneven bleaching results or is even too strong that it breaks the hair.
Today, I solved all these challenges with my powder. The quality of the results was the driving factor and the most difficult thing in producing the powder for this line.
First, I wanted a powder that is gentle on the hair. We decreased the risks by about 99%.
I spent 20 years always paying attention to the hair of my clients to make sure that the powder didn’t expand or overheat, and the hair doesn’t get damaged.
You will have to try this powder and test the difference. I sometimes wish I had done this product 10 years ago; I certainly would have been now in even a much better place.
What is impressive about this powder is that it has a silky touch and feeling on the hair.
It extends and covers fast, it doesn’t become hot and it doesn’t expand. It gives you the color from top to bottom 100%. It is very smooth and gentle, and it gives you more leeway if it remains more time on the client’s hair.
I am using it on a hair damaged already and it is giving me amazing results. This should assure you. The ARKITEKT and the powder are revolutionary and they will have your back.
And I can see how much more productive and I am enjoying my work at the same time. I should draw attention to that. I, like everyone else, am always searching for safety in my work. The products that I use are my weapons.
It is really important today to know the weapons you are working with to protect yourself. This is what I have always been looking for.
Many times before, we used to face challenges and test different products.
We will talk about something really important concerning the methods of lightening. The method I use with the colors and the results I choose to deliver.
This is something really important for every hairdresser to know as this helps make our life easier.
I have three levels of lightening: orange, golden yellow and light yellow. Starting with orange. When I decide to tone on an orange level, I immediately agree with the client that I am going to caramel or hazel colors from the same level.
For orange lightening to go to caramel or hazel, I use from 5 to 7. If I go higher to 8/9/10, the result won’t be the same and I can face problems like remaining stains and the color won’t be the one I want.
I want a deep 100% hair coverage,I use between 5 and 7 to get the coverage and results. These are the same numbers used on orange levels.
If I use higher numbers like 8/9/10, the result won’t be the same and the color will fade and be patchy of course.
And something really important to note is that the result I aim for should be classy, beautiful and the color brightness should be pretty.
From 5 to 7, how much time do you leave it on the hair?
It depends on each level but in general for level 5, 6, or 7 it’s between 10-12 minutes maximum to get the result.
Of course, if you are using only the number 5 to obtain caramel or another color like 5.23, 5.32, 5.72; the 5 takes less time to deposit the color. Thus 5-6 minutes is enough.
The higher you go; it will take more time and this also depends on the desired level of color.
There are no rules to say that you should leave it 12 minutes to get caramel or 10 minutes to hazelnut.
It is critical to observe the color and assess the time. This is what I have been trained on and doing my whole life- to be able to assess and feel the right moment to remove the color.
Like say if you are doing the same toning with the same formula I am using, and you decide to remove it after 6 minutes because you like the tone but I leave it for 10 minutes instead.
That is fine,there are no rules. Just assess the right time. This depends on tastes and opinions.
I prefer to train my eyes and feelings to do so and this is why we created toners or bonbons de Mounir- to deliver these results to hairdressers.
I am addressing professionals and the hairdressers who love the adventure, who love to be creative and enter an adventurous world. The world of colors. The world of Mounir.
So, I repeat that it is extremely important to train your eyes and feelings to know when to rinse the color or keep it longer. This is really important because even 1 or 2 minutes are important for the results.
Of course, you will leave number 7 in for a longer time?
This is normal because if we are doing a dark color, it is normal to tone with number 5 or 6 as it will give the color faster than number 7.
So we move to yellow?
The light yellow lightening levels are my playground and the levels I work with. It is rare that I work on white or yellow.
To get the clear and lucid results like shining grey or beige or violet beige or colors we see clear light in. I always work on light yellow not on white.
So why do I work on light yellow and not white in the formulas I choose?
Well first, when you lighten to white you remove all the gold or the red pigments from the hair, it becomes light.
If I tone with any color it will give me crazy, aggressive and strong colors.
I use most of the time the light-yellow lightening because first of all, I get a very enriched color by keeping natural pigment in the hair.
Then the color doesn’t fade out quickly from the hair. I rely on my formulas to work with the pigment in hair, in the light yellow bleaching levels. I also rely on my toners that are formulated to work with this level of bleaching.
Bleaching to light yellow helps me get the results that I want. The results will differ if bleaching to white , orange or yellow.
The level of lightening is extremely important. Any formula you see me doing on Facebook or Instagram is based on light yellow bleaching which is even and without orange.
So that yellow color that the hairdressers are scared of,
you are using it to your advantage by keeping the pigment
to get these beautiful colors.
This is a really important subject for hairdressers.
Key points of the bleaching process are 1st, the health of the hair and 2nd, the results that you desire.
It should be clear that the bleaching to white levels is used for special cases only if a woman wants white platinum or ice grey or light pink.
These are the cases where we go to white bleaching. But I am talking about the normal usual level of bleaching that we use in salons for most of our clients. Ordinary people for who we do transformations and we are having beautiful light color in the hair.
You should not bleach to white to get Mounir’s colors but rather to light yellow to have a clean level without orange or yellow.
When we talk about light yellow, it is a totally different level from yellow.
The light yellow is golden, free from orange and red.
This is extremely important if you want to achieve light colors in 8 and 9 or use the bonbons toners that we created. You must bleach to light yellow not white.
No need to go to white bleaching, as it will weaken the clients hair and it is not needed.
For all yellow lightening you should go to natural colors that are not hazel nor caramel. The dark beige or the dark olive green; the natural colors.
If you bleach to gold or yellow levels, I recommend toners between 6-8 and stay away from 9-12.
So you can mix between 6 and 9 and stay on levels 7 or 8 for yellow lightening to give the results 100%.
As we said before, for orange lightening we use between 5 and 7 and now for yellow we use between 6 to 8.
And for light yellow, it’s hairdressers recreation. I sometimes do the toning with level 5 or 9 or 10.
This is where your creativity plays a role. You should train your eyes to observe and feel what to use when to stop to have the desired result.
In general, hairdressers should be confident as i will show them the road to take.
Hairdressers know that I do toner with any level 4/10/5, they don’t know the precise level I use.
If someone is confident with colors, he can use and play with all levels and colors when toning a light bleached hair.